The majority of saltwater rods are designed for boat fishing. Some are straightforward fishing sticks, some are custom-built, but most are IGFA-rated in the 6, 12, 20 and 30-pound (lasses and should be used with lines of the same rating.
Boat rods are made of solid or hollow glass fibre or a combination of glass fibre and graphite (carbon fibre). Solid glass fibre rods first appeared a half century ago and are still produced. They are generally less expensive than hollow rods, but the blank is virtually indestructible, and they are often found on charter boats where gear is hired out. The American company Penn produces high-quality solid glass rods in a range of line classes, and Shakespeare offers solid glass rods for light, medium and heavy classes.
Hollow glass fibre rods were developed in the 1960s. Glass fibre construction gave the opportunity for saltwater rods of immense strength but of very thin profile and outstanding action, and these could be designed for specific types of fishing and species.
Rods made mainly of graphite don’t usually perform well as boat rods, and pure graphite rods have a tendency to split or shatter. The glass/graphite mixture, however, combines the best features of both materials and is ideal for this type of fishing Glass fibre and graphite in combination, however, produces a rod blank of immense strength and action. A unique process known as Howald, developed in the United States for the Shakespeare Company, produces the famed Ugly Stik range of rods. Basically, the blank has an inner spiral of graphite covered by an outer layer of glass fibre.
This technology paved the way for multiciass rods called Stand Up Stiks. These are short, one-piece rods with a minimum length of 5 feet and a maximum of 6 feet. They have caused a revolution in deepwater wreck fishing, particularly for conger. The principle of the Stand Up multiciass rod, usually rated 30 80 pounds and used in association with a special butt pad worn low, is a soft top section that in effect folds down under pressure, reducing the lever action working against the angler.
Its lifting power is awesome, which is exactly the what is needed to get a big conger quickly away from the hazardous nature of a wreck or a rock canyon. These rods feature roller rings and a roller tip that reduces line friction as a heavy fish is pumped up.
For general downtide bottom fishing, 20 and 30 pound rods of 7 or 7 1/2 feet are suitable for most species. 12 and 20 pound class rods of 7 1/2 feet are perfect for taking pollack from an anchored or drifting boat. If you are targeting potentially heavy fish such as conger, ling or skate, use a rod with a rating of at least 30 pounds, and for deepwater wreck fishing you should step up to a 50 pound rod or a Stand Up Stik. Blue shark fishing, being a running fish, can be taken with a 30 pound rod, but the much larger porbeagle is a very different proposition and you should use 50 or 80 pound tackle.
The technique of uptiding is very effective in shallow water where the bottom is free of hazards. It requires a rod of 8 to 10 feet, capable of casting” 4 lo 8 ounces of terminal tackle, and can bring fine catches of cod, bass and ray species. Uptide rods are available in a range of casting weights, for example 2 6 ounces and 2-10 ounces. The heavier rods are necessary in very strong tidal (lows, while the lighter rods, by virtue of their length, also make excellent trolling rods for bass and pollack over reefs and open ground.
In uptiding, the boat is at anchor and the terminal gear is cast away uptide. A lead with grip wires is used if the end rig, which is usually a running ledger, is to remain in one place. The instant the lead hits the water, the reel spool is braked to stop backlash. A few seconds later, pressure is released to allow extra line to pay off the reel. Once the terminal rig is on the bottom, the slack line is wound in and the grip lead is anchored firmly into the mud, sand or shingle.
An alternative to the running ledger, the rolling ledger, allows a great deal more ground to be searched and differs only in that a conventional bomb type lead replaces the grip weight.
For shore fishing, an 11 to 12 foot surfcasting rod with a medium-fast action and rated for 6 ounces of lead is capable of casting a good distance and will meet the needs of most anglers. It is also ideal for fishing rocky areas, as it has the lift and power characteristics necessary for such species as conger, bull huss and big wrasse. A heavy duty, double-handed 10 foot spinning rod can also be used with success for most species in this category of shore fishing, but it is a touch light for conger.
Boat uptide rods are quite useful for rough-ground shore fishing, particularly when fishing from sea ledges where the backing cliff limits casting space, while 7 to 11 foot spinning rods can be used as float rods for such fish as mullet, bass, mackerel and pollack. A 12 foot freshwater carp rod with a l 1/2 to 2 pound test curve is also suitable for taking grey mullet, which have soft mouths very prone to tearing. The rod tip’s gentle action prevents the hook from pulling out.
Saltwater fly fishing calls for long, accurate casting. Reservoir trout rods are well suited to this sort of work, particularly 10 foot graphite rods capable of throwing a number 9 weight-forward line. You can use shorter rods, but these generally lack the casting ability and stopping power of a 10-footer. The reel should be a corrosion-resistant graphite or anodized aluminium model, large enough to take the line plus ample backing.
